Late winter and early spring are the ideal planting window for fruit trees.
Even with smaller trees, growing fruit is a long-term investment. Fruits can take anywhere from two to 10 years to bear fruit. If you plan to be harvesting for years to come, it pays to do some upfront planning.
Choosing a Size
The terms dwarf and semi-dwarf can be confusing. Dwarf fruit trees reach a height and width of about 8-10 feet. At this height, they can be tended and harvested without a ladder. Pruning keeps them even smaller. Unfortunately, dwarf fruit trees tend to have short lives.
Semi-dwarf fruit trees are a little larger, with most topping at 12-16 feet tall and wide. Maintenance and harvest require a ladder, but the average yield is eight to 12 bushels, about twice what you expect from a dwarf tree and live far longer.
There is not much space difference between the two types of trees, and both should start producing fruits within 5 years. With just a bit more work, the yields are far greater on semi-dwarf trees. With actual dwarf trees, you will have all your fruit within arm’s reach.
For those of you thinking that even 8-10 feet is more space than you have or can sacrifice, don’t give up. Fruit trees can be grown in containers as well. The yield is not as heavy, but every bit delicious.
Which Fruit Trees Need Pollinators?
Most fruit trees produce better fruits if two or more trees are planted nearby. Just don’t put your house or barn between the two trees. Anywhere in the landscape will do.
Although the trees need to be the same type of fruit, they should not be the same variety. You can plant two different kinds of apples, and they will cross-pollinate with each other as long as they bloom simultaneously. Most fruit tree catalogs and plant labels give you suggestions for excellent pollinators. We have several local charts here at Watters Garden Center that will help.
If you only want one tree, your best options are peach, apricot, nectarine and sour cherry. These are self-pollinating or self-fruitful and pollinate themselves with help from bees. One notable exception is a Stella Sweet Cherry, which is also self-fruitful.
A second option is a multi-grafted tree, where three or more varieties of fruit are grafted onto one trunk. Another name for this fruit tree is a Fruit Cocktail Tree.
Some Like it Cold
Fruit trees need a certain number of hours when the temperature drops below 45 degrees F. Without this chilling period during their dormancy, they set little fruit the following spring. We have locally proven varieties available here at the garden center.
Which Fruit Trees are Low Maintenance?
All fruit trees require some care and the right Fruit Tree Food. Most require annual pruning. However, some can get by with minimal supervision once established. At the top of the list of low-maintenance trees are cherries. These require pruning only when branches are damaged or crossed.
Stone fruits like peaches, apricots, plums and nectarines are also easy to maintain. Some pruning is required to keep the trees open to light and may need fruit thinning in early summer for a larger harvest.
Apples and pears are the best mountain producers. Because apples and pears are the last fruit trees to blossom in spring, it reduces the likelihood of frost damage. This one trait puts them in the No. 1 producer spot.
Pruning fruit trees is a vast topic and varies with the tree type. But starting with the right tree for your location and getting it off to a healthy start is a solid first step toward your first fruit harvest.
If you’re thinking fruit this spring, now is the time to plant. Plant before they leaf. Late winter and early spring are the ideal planting window for fruit trees. Watters has the most extensive local selection.
Until next month, I’ll be helping gardeners plant the perfect fruit tree here at Watters Garden Center. QCBN
By Ken Lain
Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 Iron Springs Road in Prescott, or contacted through his website at WattersGardenCenter.com or Top10FruitTrees.com.
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