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Ken Lain

Top Ten Sedums Recommended as Groundcover Plants

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Sedum is basically like cacti without all the thorns.

Most gardeners remember their grandmother’s tall Autumn Joy growing in the hottest parts of the garden. Their joyous cousins spread and creep with the same sizzling blooms that make Sedum the ideal plant for gardeners that want less water and responsibility but still want the same beauty of a cottage garden.

Sedum is basically like cacti without all the thorns. There are close to 500 species known as Sedum or Stonecrops. Although all Sedums flower, they’re usually grown for their foliage, which comes in exciting shades of green, blue, gold and reds not found in most other plants. They store moisture in their leaves and grow well in arid mountain locations.

My Top 10 Sedums grown as stunning groundcovers are:

#1 Angelina Sedum

This gold leaf sedum is tinged in bronze when the weather turns cold. Dainty gold flowers appear through summer. The 5-inch plant mats and covers in dry locations, rock gardens, containers and hanging baskets, and its color contrasts nicely with dark foliage plants.

#2 Blue Spruce Sedum

The name comes from the blue foliage resembling evergreen shrubs. This fast-growing plant produces a blanket of small yellow flowers throughout summer. It grows perfectly as a transition between low-sprawling evergreens, such as juniper and yews. It grows to ankle height and enjoys the hottest, windiest spots in the garden.

#3 Cascade Sedum

This perennial species blooms with yellow flowers in the midsummer heat. The leaves are green but show a red tinge in full sun. Individual plants spread several feet in irregular patterns from the crown. The variety is striking in light shade, growing 4 inches tall.

#4 Coral Reef Sedum

Also called a “Chinese Sedum,” the Coral Reef Sedum is one of the few with warm golden foliage. Growing just 2 inches tall, the light-colored foliage looks fantastic next to darker-colored sedums. Miniature white and pink flowers appear in July and August. Aggressive greenery creeps and spreads down embankments and rock gardens but looks equally handsome planted at the edge of a container.

#5 Japanese Sedum

The Japanese Sedum has silver leaves with distinctive red edges and hot-pink flowers that appear in Autumn. The plant is perfect for brightening the dark corners of a landscape. Many gardeners refer to this beauty as the “October Sedum.” It stands just 3 inches tall and grows anywhere in the garden, especially in the summer heat.

#6 Mongolian Sedum

This excellent groundcover plant blooms in late summer in shades of pink. Stunning leaves are blue and often trimmed in late autumn before it hibernates underground for winter. It is super tough in dry, crusty soil and grows just 5 inches tall, making it the perfect Sedum for rock gardens.

#7 Murale Sedum

Attractive to butterflies, this is a sedum cultivar with bronze foliage and pink flowers that bloom in early summer. It has a similar growth habit as the rest of the species but is a slightly smaller plant overall. Growing just under ankle high, it creeps through rocks as a groundcover. The species was found in Siberia, so you know it’s cold hardy for mountain gardens.

#8 Purple Emperor Sedum

This has plum foliage and pink blooms that are striking when planted with other sedums. Growing a foot tall, it grows well when filling pockets in rock gardens and sunny border gardens. It grows in full sun but blooms a ridiculously long time when planted in shade gardens.

#9 Siberian Sedum

This groundcover plant has deep green leaves and golden yellow flowers that bloom in late summer. The 4-inch foliage turns an attractive bronze in autumn. It’s a reliable, fast-growing plant used to fill spaces in rock gardens or chinks in stone walls as well as blanket sunny areas. This Sedum was found in Siberia, so you know it thrives where lesser Sedums fail.

#10 White Sedum

Named for its white flowers, this plant’s green foliage turns reddish in autumn. It blooms in summer and is an excellent ground cover for thin, poor soils or rock embankments. Drought conditions may turn the foliage pinkish, but this species has excellent tolerance for dry conditions. It loves blistering hot sun and grows 3-5 inches tall. Its white outshines the rest in light shade.

Until next month, I’ll be helping gardeners grow more fragrant gardens here at Watters Garden Center. QCBN

By Ken Lain

Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 Iron Springs Road in Prescott, or contacted through his website at WattersGardenCenter.com or Top10Plants.com.

Identifying Best Smelling Plants for Outdoor Gardens

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Here is a list of the best plants for easy fragrance through your gardens.

Arizona is famous for outdoor activities. When all this activity brings the party to your deck, patio or pool’s edge, the fragrance of the garden should be positive and uplifting to the friends that gather. This is the perfect place to add sweetly scented plants for ambiance. Forget the candles and citronella. The right plants remind us why the mountains of Arizona are meant to be enjoyed outdoors.

The fragrance of many plants intensified at night are yet another reason to relax under the stars. Enjoy the aromas of the sweetest-smelling plants at the garden center today.

What’s the first thing we do when we see a flower? Most of us smell it, of course. Children primarily identify the sight of a blossom with fragrance. While we can occasionally be surprised, disappointed or repulsed by a plant’s odor, its scent is essential to gardens.

Using fragrant plants in the landscape is not a new concept. The botanical reason for plant fragrance is simple. Humans identify hundreds of odors. Many trigger solid reactions and emotions. Smells attract pollinators to the flowers. White or pastel blossoms seem to have more potent scents. This trait is probably to help them compete with their more brightly colored cousins.

The fragrance is not limited to flowers. Heavenly aromas are found in other parts of the plant’s foliage, seeds and bark. Herbs are perfect examples.

Viburnum by the front entrance to your home invites guests to take a moment to stop and smell the flowers. Remember, our prevailing Southwest mountain wind directs the aroma. You want to place fragrant plants where they can be appreciated.

Best Planting Locations

  • Container Gardens on Rolling Caddies – create your own portable plant aromatherapy using rolling plant caddies under your containers. Move them where you want.
  • Open the Window – any window that allows a breeze to enter your home is enhanced by the fragrance of plants.
  • Porches, Patios, Decks – anywhere you have seating is a great place to enjoy fragrant plants, especially evening blooming plants like jasmine and moonflower. A solitary bench in the garden is an excellent place to escape.
  • Trellis to Climb – bring the fragrance up to nose level. Arbors, especially over garden gates and pergolas, bring the aroma to you.
  • Walkways and Entry – passers-by enjoy the aroma of blooms. Scented leaves release their scent when brushed as you walk by.

Here is a list of the best plants for easy fragrance through your gardens.

Annual flowers bloom in riotous waves of fragrant colors. The best flowers are Alyssum, Marigold, Nasturtium, Pansy, Petunia, Poppy, Primrose, Stock and Viola.

Evergreens are famous in the mountains of Arizona for their pitchy pine scent. Many have incredible flowers with a fragrance that outdoes most. Evergreens with aromas are Azalea, Cypress, Deador Cedar, Desert Broom, Holly, Euonymus, Juniper, Lavender, Pine, Rosemary, Silver Berry, Spanish Broom and Waxleaf Privet.

Herbs – Most herbs are fragrant. Sage and rosemary are undeniably fragrant. Creeping thyme is used as a ground cover in stepping stone walkways simply because it smells good when stepped on. Almost the entire family of herbs is fragrant: Basil, Bay, Catmint, Chamomile, Lavender, Mint, Oregano, Scented Geranium, and Thyme.

Perennials at the top of the fragrant list would have to be Astilbe, Candytuft, Daylily, Dianthus, Hosta, Iris, Lilies, Lily-of-the-Valley, Peony, Phlox, Primrose, Russian Sage, Sedum, Sweet Woodruff and Verbena.

Shrubs are more fragrant for one reason only: their size. The most fragrant of all would be Butterfly Bush, Cotoneaster, Daphne, Forsythia, Gardenia, Lilac, Manzanita, Mock Orange, Osmanthus, Roses, Viburnum, Big Sage Bush and Silverberry.

Trees come in all scents and flavors. The most notable local trees for uplifting aromas are Crabapple, Flowering Cherry, Crape Myrtle, Chitalpa, Fruit Trees, Serviceberry, Pine and Spruce.

Vines are ideal for climbing up arches, pergolas, fences and deck posts for a fragrance that reaches any location. Have them climb or spread out as a ground cover. Here are the top picks: Akebia, Clematis, Climbing Roses, Honeysuckle, Jasmine, Lady Banks Rose, Sweet pea and Wisteria.

Until next month, I’ll be helping gardeners grow more fragrant gardens here at Watters Garden Center. QCBN

By Ken Lain

Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 Iron Springs Road in Prescott or contacted through his website at WattersGardenCenter.com or Top10Plants.com.

Prescott Food Forest Gala Marks a Major Victory for Gardening Education Programs

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There has never been a more important time than now to learn or expand your ability to grow food.

On Tuesday Feb. 21, at The Club at Prescott Lakes, we hosted a Victory Garden Gala to raise awareness and funds to support the Gardeners Of Destiny (GOD) gardening education training program at B Organic Farm, Chino Valley.

The evening was a total success. More than 125 people from all sectors of our community came to support our mission to empower people to grow food for health and self-sustainability.

I am grateful for the support from our sponsors, donors, friends and neighbors. I want to thank Ed Walsh and Bob Knudson from Lamb Cadillac for their generous primary sponsorship and also Grayden Guilford and Pinnacle Bank for their gold sponsorship. Your donations allowed us to accelerate our plans and efforts!

A special note of appreciation to Ken Lain and Watters Garden Center for their sponsorship and donation of a fruit tree orchard as part of our live auction. Ken was also the keynote speaker, sharing his first-hand experience seeing the shift toward edible growing and backyard gardening to fight inflation and to ensure healthy food consumption. His expertise and insights were enjoyed by all.

I was honored that Prescott City Councilman Steve Sischka attended as a sponsor with Olsen’s for Healthy Pets, as well as Dan Olsen, who offered a beautiful blessing before dinner. I am proud that my wife, Lisa, was a sponsor with Silver Sands Recovery. Special thanks to Quad Cities Business News, Toby Ebarb with Legacy Roofing, Mark Womack with Womack Construction and Brian Wirick of Sterling North Homes for their sponsorships. Vickie Johnston from H20 Health not only sponsored the event, but contributed a whole house water filtration system for our live auction. I have gratitude for the Barley Hound and the Vivili Group for donating a private culinary experience for eight at the Barley Hound, with a personalized chef’s dinner.

I want to thank many local individuals and businesses for donating items, experiences and art for our silent auction and raffle items. We truly live in a giving and supportive community. All told, we raised close to $30,000 and netted close to $20,000. This provides the needed resources to grow and expand our efforts.

The evening started with a soulful musical performance by the very talented Kenny James. The food, prepared by Chef Matt at The Club at Prescott Lakes, was delicious. They also donated a private chef’s dinner for six and a round of golf.

I was proud to present the 2nd Annual “Arline’s Angel Award” (in memory of my mom), which is presented to someone who reflects the giving nature my mom had. We awarded Stephane Leon, a local schoolteacher and the designer of our logos, website and the evening’s program guide, as this year’s recipient. Most importantly, she is the director of the Gardeners Of Destiny training program, which just completed the eight-week winter greenhouse growing course and was well received.

In that regard, we are offering a Summer Growing course starting Sat., April 29 for eight weeks. If you would like to participate, we have a few spots left. For more information, please visit prescottfoodforest.com. To apply for a full scholarship, you need to commit to a minimum of 10 hours of volunteering at B Organic Farm. Everyone seems to love this win/win deal.

Finally, I am thankful for our team of volunteers that worked tirelessly to help plan and execute the outcome we achieved. Specifically, I want to thank Ann Herrington, Susan Rubio, Rhonda Clark, Debra Ott, LeRoy Miller, Wendy Lancy, and Betty and Bob Knudson for their time, effort and heart to make this event a Big Victory to continue our education and growing food programs.

There has never been a more important time than now to learn or expand your ability to grow food. You are welcome to join us as a volunteer, student or donor for our scholarship drive. Together, we are making a difference and positively impacting our community by teaching gardening skills and building new friendships with like-minded people. Yes, this is a place for people to grow together, so let’s get growing! QCBN

By John Murphy

John Murphy is a realtor and founder of Make 100 Healthy. He can be reached at 928-899-1341.

Identifying Nine Vegetable Blunders

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Vegetable gardening is an ongoing learning experience made up of lots of small successes and some failures.

As we progress into the vegetable planting season, the potatoes, garlic, kale and lettuce are already planted. The summer edibles will take center stage with the last frost quickly approaching.

Garden success often depends on things out of our control, including rainfall, temperature and soil type, to name a few. Here are the personal mistakes I wish readers to avoid as we plant the spring gardens.

Mistake #1: Starting Too Early

Gardener and impatient are used in the same sentence. The planting season starts in March, but frost is expected through April. Ensure early garden plants can take the freeze-thaw cycle the Central Highlands are famous for. Leafy plants like broccoli, cabbage, peas and parsley love this early spring weather.

The first of May is our local last frost. You will find the most extensive vegetable selection when you shop early, but have a plan to protect them if a late frost is predicted. Otherwise, you will be back at the garden center buying more plants. Here is Watters local Vegetable Calendar for Mountain Gardens.

Mistake #2: Garden in the Wrong Spot

A vegetable garden should be conveniently handy. In days when zucchini grow to the size of bowling pins, or rabbits break through your fence to finish the peas, daily visits will be needed. Vegetables require six or more hours of sun per day. Too little, and the fruits are small without flavor. A hose or watering can is needed until summer monsoon rains arrive. The closer the garden is to water, the easier it is to irrigate.

Mistake #3: Going Cheap on Soil and Plant Food

Plants use up garden soil as they grow. Starting off with poor soil ensures a struggle all season. Refresh annually with Barnyard Manure and Premium Mulch at the start of every planting season. Containers and raised beds need fresh Potting Soil that revitalizes pots. Earthworms are always a good sign.

Use water-soluble Flower Power twice monthly for a fantastic vegetable harvest. Watters Fruit and Vegetable Food is even better for more extensive gardens.

Mistake #4: Picking Too Slowly

Enjoy your vegetables while at their peak. A plant won’t set more cucumbers or peppers if its branches are already full. Herbs, like basil and cilantro, benefit from frequent harvesting.

Mistake #5: Planting Too Many

Planting more than you can eat or even care for is common. Start with varieties you enjoy or cannot purchase fresh locally. Learn how to grow them and expand your repertoire. It is best to enjoy success with a smaller garden than struggle to keep up with a large one. Here’s my list of the Easiest Vegetables to Grow in the Garden: https://wattersgardencenter.com/10-favorite-vegetables-easily-grown-in-pots/.

Mistake #6: Lack of Spacing

Seeds of lettuce, carrots and beets are planted close and thinned as you harvest. Plants set out as seedlings, like tomatoes and peppers, or large plants, like corn and beans, need much more space at maturity. If squashes, pumpkins and cucumbers are in your garden, they require even more room. To make the best use of space, interplant early vegetables like spinach, radish and lettuce underneath or around those that require a longer growing season.

Mistake #7: Deferred Maintenance

Different vegetables have different needs. Tomatoes need water at ground level. Overhead watering can encourage diseases and blights. Vegetables like corn, lettuces and broad-leaf plants like squashes are more tolerant of overhead irrigation.

Weeds take water and nutrients from your vegetables. They also provide cover for bugs that carry disease and eat your garden. Your hoe may be the best tool in the shed.

Mistake #8: Letting the Animals In

The need for a sturdy fence cannot be overstated. Deer, javelina, rabbits and gophers can wipe out a garden overnight. Planting vegetables is like ringing the dinner bell.

Mistake #9: Not Dealing with Problems Early

Monitor your plants regularly. Yellowing leaves or spots are best corrected before the entire row is infected. Catch insects early before they take over. Problems like blossom end rot are remedied simply by removing the affected fruit.

Vegetable gardening is an ongoing learning experience made up of lots of small successes and some failures. Begin with good soil, quality seeds and regular garden practices, and success follows.

Until next week, I’ll be helping gardeners plant better vegetable gardens here at Watters Garden Center. QCBN

By Ken Lain

Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 Iron Springs Road in Prescott, or contacted through his website at WattersGardenCenter.com or Top10Vegetables.com.

Are Fruit Trees a Good Investment?

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Watters has the most extensive local selection and ready to set fruit and grow.

You used to need a lot of land to grow fruit trees. Dwarf and semi-dwarf fruit trees have allowed growing them in just about any yard. Most standard-sized fruit trees mature at a height and width of between 18-25 feet. Not only will this require a big chunk of your yard, but it also makes them tall to prune and spray without using a ladder.

Even with smaller trees, growing fruit is a long-term investment. Fruits can take anywhere from two to 10 years to bear fruit. If you plan to be harvesting for years to come, it pays to do some upfront planning.

Choosing a Size
The terms dwarf and semi-dwarf can be confusing. Dwarf fruit trees reach a height and width of about eight to 10 feet. At this height, they can be tended and harvested without a ladder. Pruning keeps them even smaller. Unfortunately, dwarf fruit trees tend to be short-lived.

Semi-dwarf fruit trees are a little larger, with most topping at 12 to 16 feet tall and wide. Maintenance and harvest require a ladder, but the average yield is eight to 12 bushels, about twice what you expect from a dwarf tree and far longer living.

There is not much space difference between the two types of trees, and both should start producing fruit within five years. With just a bit more work, the yields are far greater on semi-dwarf trees. With actual dwarf trees, you will have all your fruit within arm’s reach.

For those of you thinking that even eight to 10 feet is more space than you have or can sacrifice, don’t give up. Fruit trees can be grown in containers as well. The yield is not as heavy, but every bit as delicious.

Which Fruit Trees Need Pollinators?
Most fruit trees produce better fruits if two or more trees are planted nearby. Just don’t put your house or barn between the two trees. Anywhere in the landscape will do.

Although the trees need to be the same type of fruit, they should not be the same variety. You can plant two different kinds of apples and they will cross-pollinate with each other, as long as they bloom simultaneously. Most fruit tree catalogs and plant labels give you suggestions for excellent pollinators. We have several local charts here at Watters Garden Center that will help.

If you only want one tree, your best options are peach, apricot, nectarine and sour cherry. These are self-pollinating or self-fruitful and pollinate themselves with help from bees. One notable exception is a Stella Sweet Cherry, which is also self-fruitful.

A second option is a multi-grafted tree, where three or more varieties of fruit are grafted onto one trunk. Another name for this fruit tree is a “Fruit Cocktail Tree.”

Some Like it Cold
Fruit trees need a certain number of hours when the temperature drops below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Without this chilling period during their dormancy, they set little fruit the following spring. We have locally proven varieties available here at the garden center.

Which Fruit Trees are Low Maintenance?
All fruit trees require some care and the right Fruit Tree Food. Most require annual pruning. However, some can get by with minimal supervision once established. At the top of the list of low-maintenance trees are cherries. These require pruning only when branches are damaged or crossed.

Stone fruits like peaches, apricots, plums and nectarines are also easy to maintain. Some pruning is required to keep the trees open to light and may need fruit thinning in early summer for a larger harvest.

Apples and pears are the best mountain producers. Because apples and pears are the last fruit trees to blossom in spring, it reduces the likelihood of frost damage. This one trait puts them in the number one producer spot.

Pruning fruit trees is a vast topic and varies with the tree type. But starting with the right tree for your location and getting it off to a healthy start is a solid first step toward your first fruit harvest.

If you’re thinking fruit this spring, now is the time to plant. Plant before they leaf. Late winter and early spring are the ideal planting window for fruit trees. Watters has the most extensive local selection and ready to set fruit and grow.

Until next week, I’ll be helping gardeners plant the perfect fruit tree here at Watters Garden Center. QCBN

By Ken Lain

Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 Iron Springs Rd in Prescott, or contacted through his website at WattersGardenCenter.com or Top10FruitTrees.com.

Top Seven Spring Cleaning Tasks Every Garden Needs

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Here are the insider tips for a gorgeous garden this spring.

Serious gardeners are in the garden on the first warm day of spring. While there is no harm in cleaning up fallen branches and debris, wait until the soil is no longer wet enough to form a ball in your hand before walking on it and compacting. But start your cleanup quickly. It’s much easier to cut plants back before the old growth gets tangled up in the new growth. Here are the insider tips for a gorgeous garden this spring.

#1 Remove Mulch and Prune Your Perennial Flowers

The first task is removing and composting dead annual plants that remain through winter. These will not return, and any self-seeders will already have done their job.

The perennials look pretty ugly as spring approaches. Herbaceous perennials hibernate underground through winter. Look closely. Once you see new growth at their base, it is time to remove winter mulch and prune them back to ground level.

#2 Prune Woody Perennial Flowers

Shrubby plants with woody stems, like artemisia, butterfly bush, caryopteris and lavender, must be cut back before spring; they only bloom on new branch growth. Most of these woody perennials send signals when it is time to prune, showing open buds on the lower portion or base of the plant. Prune then to encourage the plant to grow tender new flower branches.

#3 Prune Ornamental Grasses

If you left your ornamental grasses up for winter interest, cut them back as soon as possible. Don’t wait for new growth to show. Cut grasses to within a few inches of the ground. They will grow back when ready.

#4 Care for Your Roses

Prune, clean and fertilize roses as soon as new buds grow. Generally, this is the end of February through March. Most shrub roses appreciate pruning down to knee height with 3 to 5 young canes remaining. Pick off all remaining leaves and rake the area clean. Spray what remains with Horticultural Oil and feed with a Systemic Rose Food.

#5 Prune Trees and Shrubs

Most spring-blooming trees and shrubs set their flower buds last summer and fall. You prune off their spring flowers by pruning now. Waiting until after they bloom is the best time to cut them back. Focus pruning on summer blooming shrubs like Rose of Sharon, Potentilla, Russian and Autumn Sages. These are safe to prune now. Vines like honeysuckle, ivy and trumpet vine are safe to prune now. Maple, aspen, oak, ash and the rest should all be pruned now.

#6 Spring Weed Prevention

Early spring is the time to take action against weeds. Damp soil makes it easy to pull young seedlings. Do not compost weeds. They come back to haunt you. Clean the gardens up, then apply Watters Weed & Grass Stopper to keep the area weed-free. This granular weed seed killer prevents weeds from germinating and is worth the extra step.

#7 Feed all Your Plants

Plants enjoy being fed in the spring when they have their initial growth spurt. Watters 7-4-4 All Purpose Food is the ideal granular plant food. Feed everything in the yard by using a hand spreader. The soil will look “salt-and-peppered” when complete. Another benefit of this natural plant food is the margin for mistakes. It is much harder to burn plants with slow-release organic plant food. This food is also excellent for vegetables and container plants inside and out.

Spring + Soil Sulfur is the secret to the best Spring gardens ever. Our mountain water works against you because of the high pH. Soil Sulfur counteracts high pH, so plants grow richer greens and brighter colors. Apply once to the entire landscape with the Spring feeding for maximum beauty, silvery blue from spruce, holly and hydrangea, larger roses and taller perennials. Even grasses benefit.

Until next issue, I’ll be helping gardeners grow better here at Watters Garden Center. QCBN

By Ken Lain

Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 Iron Springs Road in Prescott, or contacted through his website at WattersGardenCenter.com or Top10Plants.com.

Top Evergreen Shrubs of Winter

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Here are the Top 15 most popular evergreen shrubs planted through winter.

Autumn colors are spectacular. The colors and textures are unique to the four seasons of the Mountain West. As we lose the last autumn leaves, the landscape can feel naked and bare. Deciduous plants, which lose their leaves through winter, often expose you to prying eyes, vehicle glare, and a yard that feels empty. Evergreens take center stage for the next few months, and you can feel when the landscape doesn’t have the right mix of evergreen trees and shrubs.

Not to worry, you will find the best selection of winter evergreens at your garden center now, and it’s an excellent time to plant one of your own.

Here are the Top 15 most popular evergreen shrubs planted through winter.

Blue Star Juniper– This is strictly a foliage plant. If you like the look of a blue spruce tree but lack the space for something that big, merely scale down and grow a Blue Star Juniper. With its short blue needles, it looks terrific when planted next to shrubs with golden foliage.

Boxwood – is a small, rounded evergreen that forms tufts of growth resembling clouds if left unpruned. This slow-growing dwarf form is ideal for edging borders along pathways or around flower beds. Well-suited for topiary and containers and resistant to boxwood leaf miners.

Euonymous – is the most popular of the hedge plants. Although its bright year-round foliage appears almost festive, this plant is tough as they come. An ideal hedge can be sheared or left to grow into a natural form dense enough to make an excellent visual and sound barrier. For long hedgerows, a combination of the two varieties creates a more exciting entity.

Gilt Edge Silverberry – A splendid Arizona native, this shrub sports a combination of golden-yellow margins on bright green foliage that provides incredible year-round landscape interest. It’s superb as a hedge or low screen that tolerates heat and wind and requires little maintenance. Tiny, fragrant, silvery flowers followed by ornamental red fruit. Impervious to both javelina and deer.

Heavenly Bamboo – is evergreen with bright red highlights through winter. Bamboo-shaped foliage is graced with clusters of white flowers in spring that form red berries as summer heat arrives. Think versatility with this 3-foot-tall plant, as it is happy in any amount of sun, most soils, and tolerates any amount of cold or heat.

Holly – is a broadleaf evergreen that usually grows 6’ to 8’ tall. The holly leaves develop a darker color that contrasts nicely against the bright red berries. Perfect for north-facing borders, screens, hedges and for foundation plantings. Easy to grow and impervious to mountain wildlife.

Indian Hawthorn – This easy-to-grow evergreen produces vast clusters of fragrant, pearl-pink flowers. Perfect for planting along driveways and parking medians where reflected heat is an issue for many other plants. This spring-blooming evergreen loves Arizona heat!

Mint Julip Juniper – is perfect for large hedges, privacy screens and specimen plantings. It is so tolerant of salt, it can be used near sidewalks, driveways and roadways. It is rarely damaged by animals, such as deer, javelina, elk and packrats.

Mugho Pine – with its dense, symmetrical growth and compact, rounded form, this dwarf pine is perfect for confined spaces. Stunning green foliage takes on a golden hue during colder months. Its slow habit makes this evergreen an ideal specimen in smaller gardens or massed to make a bold statement in more significant landscapes.

Oregon Grape Holly – is the perfect mountain evergreen often mistaken for holly. Solar yellow flowers cover the entire plant in spring, followed by a summer berry that is attractive and edible. Heading into winter, the leaves turn a mixed cranberry and orange color that remains until spring blooms. This plant loves sun, heat, wind and requires less water than many natives.

Privet – has the same look as photinia but may be a better choice for a residential landscape. Growing to only six feet high, it forms a thick, dark green hedge. The waxy leaves retain moisture within the plant’s structure. The result is a lower maintenance hedge with lower water needs and fewer bug problems than its red-tipped counterpart.

Red Cluster Berry Cotoneaster – has white flowers in spring, evolving to red berries that remain on the plant through winter. It is a welcome food source for feathered friends hanging around after welcoming in the new year. Growing 10’ tall and wide, it loves the sun and is easy to grow.

Spreading Yew – has rich green needles that border on black. The 4’ to 6’ spread is used as a hedge, screen or border in a shaded or dapple sunspace. Scarlet berries show off against all the wintergreen and are highly attractive to birds.

Winter Heaths – first-time growers of these alpine evergreens are impressed by their long blooming period. Winter heaths, Erica darleyensis, live up to their name, putting out flowers in the most unlikely season: winter. If the climate and conditions are suitable, they flower from late winter right through spring.

Yucca – Massed together, yuccas form an impressive display during their bloom period. Garland’s Gold and Golden Sword are bold choices with or without remarkable flowers.

Until next month, I’ll be helping local gardeners plant the best evergreens here at Watters Garden Center. QCBN

By Ken Lain

Ken Lain can be found at Watters Garden Center throughout the week, 1815 W. Iron Springs Road in Prescott, or contacted through his websites at WattersGardenCenter.com or Top10Shrubs.com.

Holiday Evergreens Hide the Neighbors

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When you’re ready to choose the trees for your living wall of green, read through these popular choices of local screening plants that fill in fast.

Now is the time to plant privacy screens for maximum growth and seclusion in spring. Without strategically placed evergreens in the yard, it can feel as if prying eyes are looking right into your home. Not only does your privacy seemingly disappear, but that neighbor’s debris pile can be on display!

Enable enjoyable hot tub sessions without prying eyes from that too-close-for-comfort neighbor. The solution to these unwanted invasions is not rocket science. Simply plant a wall of living trees and shrubs to block an undesirable view and create the privacy you desire!

An excellent example of an “evergreen and gold” hedge is Golden Euonymous. Now is the ideal planting season for fast-growing trees and shrubs to maximize autumn roots critical for a lush wall next spring.

To successfully add evergreens to a landscape, several essential steps are worthy of your time and energy. The most crucial requirement for trees to thrive is drainage. Blend one shovelful of Watters Premium Mulch into every three shovelfuls of native earth to pack around each root. Feed new plants with 7-4-4 All Purpose Plant Food right after planting. The cottonseed meal in this natural food promotes robust root formation while maintaining good foliage color. Finally, deep soak each plant with a solution of Root & Grow. This specially designed compost tea encourages new roots that grow deep and strong.

Best Evergreen Trees Used as Screens, Accents

When you’re ready to choose the trees for your living wall of green, read through these popular choices of local screening plants that fill in fast.

Arizona Cypress My favorite native evergreen screener is the Arizona cypress. It is like a giant alligator juniper in size and color but grows faster and fills in more thoroughly than other screening plants. Growing to over 20 feet tall and 12 feet wide in just a few years, you can see why this is the No. 1 choice for a planted screen.

Colorado Spruce Very cold hardy, this spruce is the perfectly symmetrical Christmas tree shape. It is an excellent choice for a front yard tree or as a semi-formal accent in a large yard. It makes a pretty evergreen background against contrasting foliage colors, flowering shrubs or highlighting autumn leaves. Line up several for a windbreak or to quickly diffuse lights and sounds along busy streets.

Deodar Cedar This is the largest screening plant, growing to more than 50 feet tall and 20 feet wide. It is one of the fastest growing of the screens, growing 2-3 feet every year. This cedar thrives on low water use, drought conditions and drip irrigation, as with most upright evergreens. Make sure to give it plenty of growing space because, with its long swooping branches of Arizona Blue foliage, this tree is going to need it!

Juniper Let’s look at the juniper family. Spartan, Blue Point and Wichita are on the extensive list of junipers available at Watters Garden Center now. Juniper forests surround us, so be assured junipers are naturals to add to a landscape. Whichever color and height you like, all grow well in this part of the world.

Austrian Pine  This is a handsome evergreen tree with a densely branched conical form when young that becomes umbrella-shaped with age. Needles are long and dark green. It tolerates poor soils and harsh, drying winds, making it a great conifer for windbreaks or used as a large landscape specimen.

There are many more choices, such as the larger evergreen shrubs and deciduous trees like aspens. We’ll discuss those varieties another time.

Just Published

The Secret Garden: Plants as a Natural Screen is an all-local garden book with deeper detail about screening plants. Free copies are available for download at WattersGardenCenter.com under LEARN.

Until the next issue, I’ll be helping local gardeners plant privacy here at Watters Garden Center. I hope you have a Merry Christmas!  QCBN

By Ken Lain

Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 Iron Springs Road in Prescott, or contacted through his websites at WattersGardenCenter.com or Top10EvergreenTrees.com.

How to Grow an Evergreen Arizona Cypress

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Arizona Cypress has the same cultural needs as most other cypress species.

A valid Arizona native growing naturally at the 3,500- to 6,000-foot elevation, the Arizona Cypress, is collected by conifer lovers around the globe. It is an exceptional choice for xeriscape and desert landscaping for its toughness in dry, windy climates. Often used as a living Christmas tree through the holiday season, the tree grows at a moderate two-foot pace every season, growing 25’ H x 12’ W in most yards. Groves of Arizona Cypress can be found on Prescott’s backside, standing 40’ tall with age.

There is an easy way to distinguish between an Arizona Cypress and native juniper. Female junipers form berries, while male junipers offer nothing by pollen. Arizona Cypress starts cute pinecones the size of golf balls. The tiny leaves of this tree look like needles in different shades of blue, green and gold.

  • Common Name Arizona Cypress
  • Botanical Name Cupressus arizonica
  • Plant Type Coniferous evergreen
  • Mature Size 25’ H x 12’ W
  • Sun Exposure 6+ hours Full sun
  • Soil Type alkaline, loamy, sandy, well-drained
  • Bloom Time Non-flowering
  • Hardiness Zones 7 to 9
  • Native Area Arizona, New Mexico & Mexico

How to Plant and Grow Arizona Cypress

Arizona Cypress has the same cultural needs as most other cypress species. It will do well in a sunny location with rich, well-draining soil. Container-grown or ball-and-burlap trees should be planted in a large, carefully prepared hole and backfilled with soil amended with Watters Premium Mulch or another acidifying organic material.

Light

Cupressus arizonica needs a site that provides 6+ hours of full sun for a superior thick tree that grows fast.

Soil

Arizona Cypress can grow in many different soil types, especially ones that can be considered problematic, such as clay or sand. The ideal soil for growing Cypress should be sandy loam with a high percentage of organic matter. The ground needs to have proper drainage. To ensure drainage, Watters Premium Mulch is recommended to blend into the planting hole of each Tree.

Water

Dry soil is no problem for this evergreen tree, but it thrives with 10-12” inches of rain annually. Faster growth is delivered when watered weekly by drip irrigation. Any location chosen should offer proper drainage for optimal growth.

Temperature and Humidity

Arizona cypress is tolerant of hot, dry conditions like those in the American Southwest or Mexico. Areas of high humidity are prone to more diseases. The tree grows best in USDA zones 7 to 9.

Fertilizer

Feed with Watters 7-4-4 All Purpose Plant Food three times per year (March, July and October) for best growth and dense foliage that screens and cuts the wind.

Pruning

Arizona Cypress can be pruned to form a hedge if desired. It requires little pruning unless you remove damaged, brittle or dead branches. Cypress trees do not develop new buds on older wood, so cutting back shoots could lead to bare spots on the tree. Additionally, you should only prune (in March) right before new growth in the spring. If you need to control growth or prune for shape, late spring or early summer are good times.

Common Pests and Diseases

Pests and insects are rare, but periodic outbreaks of bagworms can cause defoliation. Spray with Watters Caterpillar Control at the first sign of these tiny caterpillars for easy control. Cypress Beetles can cause branches to die back and are easy to spot. Spray with Watters 38 Plus at the first sign of tip damage in spring.

Mistletoe is a parasitic shrub that sends roots into the tree branches and steals nutrients. You should prune out affected branches when the mistletoe first forms to keep it from growing and spreading.

When humidity is high, Gymnosporangium rusts can form. It can lead to problems like galls and witches’ brooms. These rusts are usually not problematic except in rainy years. Phomopsis blight causes new growth to be yellow and brown. Planting trees in garden soil that drain well reduces this issue.

Companion Plants for a Stunning Backyard

Austrian Pine, Mint Julip Juniper, Red Clusterberry Cotoneaster, Boxwood and Yew

Until next issue, I’ll be helping gardeners plant the best native evergreens here at Watters Garden Center. QCBN

By Ken Lain

Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 Iron Springs Rd in Prescott, or contacted through his website at WattersGardenCenter.com or Top10Evergreens.com.

Eleven Fall Tips for Better Gardens

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Now you have my personal list of autumn garden tasks.

Autumn gardening is a great time to look back on garden successes and disappointments. There’s still plenty of time to do some garden maintenance. Fall gardening takes advantage of cooler temperatures and fewer weeds and insects. Putting the garden to bed is not as hectic as waking it up in the spring. You’ll have time to really see how your plants are doing.

Here are some tasks to do now, to make next year’s garden brighter and better.

Enrich garden beds with Watters Barnyard Manure. Spread a 2-3 inch layer evenly over any exposed soil. Earthworms, along with the winter’s freeze and thaw cycle, will work this nutrient-rich manure into the soil for you.

Collect dried seed from your flowers, vegetables and herbs. Save these seeds for planting next year’s garden. You might even try to expand your skills and try winter sowing this fall.

Clean bird feeders to get them ready for use. The birds have done a great job of feasting on garden pests and serenading you this year. We are on the migratory path for birds. It amazes me how many different birds visit the feeders through the end of the year.

Gather herbs and flowers for drying. Leave some flowers for the birds, but get a head start on your garden clean-up by cutting back plants like hydrangea, lavender and yarrow and bringing them indoors. I can smell the herbal fragrance now.

Clean cold frames for winter use. You won’t want to do it when the temperature hovers below freezing. Cleaning it out in the fall makes it more likely you will put it to use in the spring.

Winterize your water garden. Get ready to turn off the pump and turn on the ice breaker. Don’t forget to cover the water garden with netting to keep falling leaves out and the blue herons from getting in.

Keep trees and shrubs well-watered until the ground freezes. They may look dormant, but they’re still alive. If you have a mild, dry winter, continue watering throughout the season. This goes double for trees that were planted this year. A good rule of thumb is to irrigate your landscape with a deep soak at two-week intervals.

Cut back most perennials. Definitely cut back diseased perennials and remove all foliage and dispose of it somewhere other than your compost.

Clean, sand and oil garden tools before storing them for the winter.

Feed the entire yard.  This is especially true for young landscapes. Feed everything in the yard with Watters 7-4-4 All Purpose Plant Food. This brings out the fall flowers and autumn colors. More importantly, your evergreens will maintain their rich green colors through winter and provide better growth next spring.

Treat your evergreen pine and spruce with Plant Protector. This easy-to-use plant drench keeps the bugs out of your trees and larger evergreens for the year to come.

Now you have my personal list of autumn garden tasks. You have plenty of time, but the entire list should be completed before Thanksgiving.

Until next issue, I’ll be helping locals grow better gardens here at Watters Garden Center. QCBN

By Ken Lain

Throughout the week, Ken Lain can be found at Watters Garden Center, 1815 W. Iron Springs Road in Prescott, or contacted through his website at WattersGardenCenter.com or Top10Plants.com.