garden

Essential July Garden To-Do List

June 30, 2021 By quadcities Leave a Comment

Each time rain and irrigation touch this organic food, it releases vital nutrients to hungry plants for enhanced growth and better color.

July is the ideal month to add a shade or fruit tree, a berry plant, summer flowering shrubs and perennials to your landscape. Plants root quickly in the warm summer soil. With the arrival of monsoon rains, plants thrive even more. The increased humidity and shade from a cloud floating overhead are a relief to you and your plants.

Heat Loving Perennial

This is the best time to add summer-blooming perennials to garden containers and flowerbeds. Perennials are those flowers that come back every year bigger and bolder than the last. Perennials are in bloom at the garden center in July, the best time to shop for heat-loving flowers.

Free the Landscape with 7-4-4 All Purpose Plant Food

This is the month to push new growth from the leafy deciduous plants in the yard, especially those damaged by thrip, aphids and wind. By the end of July, feed everything in the yard with 7-4-4 All Purpose Plant Food. Apply a generous application of this plant food to everything in the yard.

Each time rain and irrigation touch this organic food, it releases vital nutrients to hungry plants for enhanced growth and better color. Roses, crape myrtle, Rose of Sharon, Autumn sage, and fruiting plants like grapes and berries are hungry in July. Expect more blooms from vegetables and flowers, more abundant fruit, and better taste when using this all-natural plant food.

Treat Stressed Plants with Humic

Any plant that doesn’t look the way it should needs help from Watters Humic. This granular nutrient is essential to spread on lawns, flowerbeds or anything you want to encourage deeper roots. This same product also brings intense color from your evergreens and the natives in the yard.

Control Bugs

To keep insects like grasshoppers from eating gardens, spray bug control or apply NOLO Bait right away to keep this pest knocked down. Powdery mildew and flea beetles also become bad this month. Deal with problems in the yard early. Bring samples to the garden center, and we can provide an exact diagnosis with a solution. Remember to place samples in Ziploc bags or jars to prevent the disease from spreading at the garden center.

Harvest and Replant the Vegetable Garden

Lettuce, spinach and spring greens have been harvested regularly for several weeks; now they look tired from the summer heat. It’s time to remove these plants and add them to the compost pile. After loosening the soil, you can plant other heat-loving crops. Check Watters Vegetable Planting Guide for details.

Prune Late Spring Blooming Shrubs

Lilac, forsythia, quince, rhododendrons and the other spring-blooming shrubs have been spectacular this spring and it’s time to prune, setting the stage for next year’s bloom. Start by removing spent blossoms and seed heads on lilacs. Cut back any dead wood and thin shrubs as needed. Do not remove more than one-third of the shrub in any given year. Your work should be rewarded next year with lavish flowers. Remember to feed blooming shrubs with Watters 7-4-4 All Purpose Plant Food when done.

Weed, and Weed Some More

Spurge, purslane, bindweed, thistle, goathead, horehound – sigh! These weeds rob treasured plants of the water they need during the summer heat. Go out early in the day to enjoy cooler temperatures while doing this essential task. Decimate is a weed killer better than Roundup in mountain landscapes. Mix, spray and watch your weeds melt away without the cancer-causing effect of Roundup.

Check Irrigation Settings

In most seasons, the water budget feature on the irrigation controller is used. This allows adjustments to all water stations at once. In late spring, the controller is set to 85% of the scheduled water times. Cooler evening temperatures mean plants need less water. July is a great time to recheck your water budget percentage to ensure your controller is 100% or greater. When cool evenings return in Autumn, you can dial back the budget again. Water early in the morning so your plants are hydrated before the heat of the day. When water budgeting is done right, it can save you both water and money.

Until next issue, I’ll be helping gardeners here at Watters Garden Center. QCBN

By Ken Lain

Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 W. Iron Springs Rd in Prescott, or contacted through his website at WattersGardenCenter.com or Top10Plants.com.

January is the Time to Prepare Garden Soils

December 30, 2020 By quadcities Leave a Comment

Gardeners know the better the soil, the larger the harvest, the brighter the flowers, the easier the gardening. Once you’ve tried digging the first planting hole in a mountain garden, you figure it out. Our native soils are HARD! Successful gardens always come down to soil quality. Skimp on spring preparation to “soften” the ground, and a garden’s production drops close to zero.

January is my month to amend garden beds, turn the soil, and let the garden rest before planting begins March 1. Let me share a few secrets of mountain soil prep that will return bushels of produce and a season full of flowers. Any backyard garden, whether in the ground or in raised beds, requires these easy steps.

The more organic material any soil contains, the better the soil quality. Our mountain soils are challenging because they lack organics such as compost, manure and leaf mold. Because plants use up organic resources throughout the year, your gardens must be “topped off” with freshly composted material each spring. The recipe that follows will add new vitality to your soil.

I use deodorized Barnyard Manure that comes bagged and ready to add to the garden for my smaller garden plots. This aged poop has a mixture of mature manure, it doesn’t smell, and it isn’t slimy. This year, my gardens received a generous dose of 50% Watters Barnyard Manure and 50% Watters Premium Mulch.

The mulch and manure additives ensure proper drainage, root growth and water retention in the gardens. Many mountain plants require calcium, magnesium, phosphorus and other minor elements, all of which should be added to your garden soil in January.

Before turning the compost additives into the planting bed, add two sources of nutrition. The first is a gypsum layer known as calcium sulfate, the most significant calcium source for plants. The second is an organic plant food I created called 6-4-4-7 Fruit & Vegetable Food. It also works well in flowerbeds to produce striking colors and fragrances!

Soil pH creeps up during the growing season. This is a problem that results from poor water quality and must be corrected to keep plants in the ideal 6.5-7.5 pH range. When your garden pH rises above this optimal range, production stops, fruit drops, the plants yellow, wilt and finally drop their leaves. Granular “Soil Sulfur” turned into your garden soil to one shovel’s depth is the correction to wrong garden pH, and every mountain garden needs it.

In summary, here is the formula of soil amendments and additives to use this spring: Begin with a 2-inch layer of 50% Premium Mulch and 50% Watters Barnyard Manure. On top of this organic layer, sprinkle the recommended rates of gypsum, Fruit & Vegetable Food 6-4-4-7, and Soil Sulfur. Turn these to one shovel’s depth into your garden soil and you are ready to plant.

Freshly turned soil is light and airy, so tread carefully on your amended garden soil, so it retains this texture. Walk on predefined paths or use a wood plank to walk over the ground without compacting it unnecessarily. We should have at least two good winter storms before March 1, but if not, deeply water your garden soil two times before planting. This will reduce damage if too much manure was added or if it congregated unevenly into the ground.

Exact additive amounts were not given in this column because those depend on your garden plot’s size. So, visit me at Watter Garden Center for precise quantities of each additive to purchase. Remember to bring your garden measurements.

Until next issue, I’ll be helping locals prepare their garden soils here at Watters Garden Center. QCBN

By Ken Lain

Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 W. Iron Springs Rd in Prescott, or contacted through his web site at WattersGardenCenter.com or FB.com/WattersGardenCenter.

Five Gardening Tips to End 2020 Strong

November 25, 2020 By quadcities Leave a Comment

The days grow short as we move into the end of the 2020 gardening season. This is the time when gardeners like to relax, sip some tea while warming our feet by the fire, and reflect on our gardening successes and near misses of the past season. But, gardening activity doesn’t come to a complete halt, as there are a few things to do in December. Here are my five gardening tasks for closing out 2020 strong and ensuring that our plants prosper in the New Year:

#1 Houseplants

Watch closely for flying fungus gnats in the house and greenhouses, as they kill houseplants. Treat with Bonide Systemic Granules at first sign of trouble.

Reduce water to indoor plants when their leaves grow pale and drop.

During shorter winter days, plants prefer being moved to a brighter room or sunny windowsill.

Cacti and succulents need a period of dormancy through winter, so keep them barely moist and do not fertilize. Resume watering and food in March.

Plant amaryllis bulbs.

Cyclamens prefer a cool room and being watered from below.

Poinsettias should be kept in a warm room and away from drafts so they last as long as possible.

If Christmas cacti fail to set buds, the room may be too warm or the plant is receiving too much artificial light.

#2 Lawns

Grass continues to grow during warm winters. Be sure your mower blades are set at 1.5 to 2 inches high.

Re-cut all edges for a crisp, clean appearance.

Once you have completed the last cut, drain mower of fuel to prevent unwanted issues next spring. Be sure mower is clean and dry before storing.

Consider servicing the mower and sharpening the blades at this time.

Prevent leaves from covering the lawn and blocking out light and air to grass.

Avoid walking on lawns on frosty mornings, as that can damage grass.

You can apply Watters 7-4-4 All Purpose Plant Food to a lawn. It is high in potassium and phosphorous, which helps to harden your grass and build a strong root system.

Check for water logging and rectify this condition now.

#3 In The Garden

Remove fallen leaves from borders and ponds.

Raise containers by using “pot feet” to prevent water logging.

Improve clay soils by incorporating organic matter like composted mulch and/or barnyard manure.

Move trees and shrubs that are growing in undesirable places. If they have been growing for several years, be sure to remove a large enough root ball to avoid root disturbance.

Protect not-so-hardy plants with protective mulch.

Deer, rabbits and squirrels can be a problem in winter months. Use tree guards to prevent bark from being gnawed.

#4 Vegetable Garden

Remove plant debris to help prevent the spread of disease.

Turn over empty beds and add organic mulch and manure to prepare soil for planting next year.

Plant new fruit trees.

Stake any Brussels sprouts stalks that are leggy and vulnerable to
wind.

Tie up new tiers on espaliers.

Prune grape vines, brambles and apple, pear and peach trees.

Prune currants and gooseberries.

Continue to harvest turnips, swedes, parsnips, celery, Brussels sprouts and beets.

Parsnips may be left in the ground until needed.

Regularly check stored apples and persimmons.

#5 Odds And Ends

The 2021 seeds have arrived at the garden center! So, purchase seeds after looking through catalogs for garden planning ideas for next season.

Spread fallen leaves on the compost pile for rotting down into leaf mold. Shredding or mowing the leaves will speed up the composting process.

Dig new garden spaces for next year; this will expose pest larvae and eggs to birds and frost.

Make sure all winter protection is at hand or in place to shelter plants if the worst possible winter weather becomes a reality.

Until next week, I’ll be helping garden friends here at Watters Garden Center. QCBN

By Ken Lain

Ken can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 W. Iron Springs Rd in Prescott, or contacted through his website at WattersGardenCenter.com or FB.com/WattersGardenCenter .

Examining the Top Evergreen Trees for Mountain Landscapes

October 29, 2020 By quadcities Leave a Comment

This is the season when decorated evergreens dominate living rooms and sparkle in the winter landscape. The list provided grows best outdoors and is often used as a living tree through holiday celebrations, then planted in the yard when the festivities are over.

Here is a list of the top seven evergreen trees that stand up to mountain wind and winter cold and resist the naturally occurring insects and diseases found at higher elevations. You will find each at the garden center. Below you’ll see the pros and cons of each.

Colorado Spruce – When customers don’t know the name of this tree, they refer to it as “The one that looks like a Christmas tree.” The thick branches swoop horizontally, forming a perfect broad pyramid. Drought hardy, this tree prefers dry, windy conditions.

Con – Tree aphids like the taste of native Ponderosa and of Colorado Spruces. They rarely do severe damage and are easily spotted in mid-spring as new growth elongates.

Pro – Ancient specimens are living proof that this tree does well. Feed with aluminum sulfate to bring out the silver-blue of this perfectly formed tree. Size: 60’H x 20’W

Austrian Pine – This long-needled evergreen often is mistaken for young Ponderosa pine, although it is far more graceful. Whereas the Ponderosa loses all its lower branches as it matures, the Austrian’s rich green needles seem to flow right to the ground for a balanced appearance. The dense, stout, pyramidal growth is uniform right to the crown. It is the hardiest of the ornamental pines without the bug issues that plague many natives. It makes a most effective windbreak or privacy screen.

Con – There aren’t many negatives other than that this is a fast-growing, big tree. It has been known to overpower walkways and eaves of a house when placed incorrectly in the yard.

Pro – The fastest growing of all-mountain pines. It can quickly grow 18 inches a year and more when under the care of an attentive gardener. Size: 35’H x 18’W

Vanderwolf Pine – Take a close look and you will see the top of each needle is blue with a green underside. This very stately pine is so soft most homeowners literally hug their trees! It’s very unusual and distinctive shape is unique to mountain landscapes.

Con – Unreceptive to heavy clay soil or a gardener with a heavy hand on the hose. Don’t over-water this evergreen or you could lose it within the first year of planting.

Pro – The color is stunning. Requires little to no pruning. Very low water user. Size: 25’H x 12’W

Fat Albert Blue Spruce – This tree has the perfect shape like a Colorado Spruce, but Fat Albert doesn’t grow as tall, so it won’t overtake more than its allotted space. It has a broad, pyramidal shape with distinct blue needles that present a consistent blue color.

Con – I really can’t think of any cons for this tree! I did see grubs eat some roots of a Fat Albert this spring, but that is a scarce sight.

Pro – Intense silver-blue needles adorn this tree. It’s the right choice for those who love a Christmas tree shape but need a tree with a small footprint. Size: 25’H x 12’W

Dwarf Alberta Spruce – The slowest growing of the evergreens is the easiest to maintain. Its perfect cone shape displays dense green soft-to-the-touch needles. Although it often is used to make a formal statement in the garden, it is excellent as a container plant or miniature Christmas tree.

Con – Watch for spider mite webs possible in June. Spider mites like the taste of an Alberta Spruce but are easily thwarted by using Watters Multi-Purpose Insect Spray for instant protection.

Pro – This small-format evergreen needs little to no maintenance with a classic evergreen look and feel. It’s perfect for large containers framing the garage, accenting decks, and highlighting pots at the front door. Size: 8’H x 3’W

Arizona Cypress – This tree is a real celebrity in the Arizona garden world. Often mistaken for a juniper, this blue evergreen forms miniature cones instead of juniper berries, making it less allergy-inducing than native juniper. It is very fast-growing and readily tolerates mountain soil, valley winds and bitter winter cold.

Con – Carefully watch the frequency of irrigation the first couple of years after planting. If you are going to kill this evergreen, it will be from too much water.

Pro – This fast grower should be a serious consideration for dry, dusty properties exposed to mountain living elements. It’s also deer and javelina resistant. Size: 20’H x 10’W

Deodar Cedar – This fast grower has a central leader with soft branches that sway gracefully in the wind. It’s a large tree that needs a large property.

Con – Such a fast grower, it often overpowers the landscape. Soft branches can break from heavy snowfalls. It needs more regular feeding than other evergreens or it will become yellow and off-color.

Pro – Fast growing and drought hardy are this tree’s claims to fame. Size: 50’H x 25’W

Local Planting Guide & Proper Irrigation – This printed information is free at Watters Garden Center.

Until next week, I’ll be helping local gardeners with the best evergreen trees here at Watters Garden Center. QCBN

By Ken Lain

Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 W. Iron Springs Rd in Prescott, or contacted through his website at WattersGardenCenter.com or FB.com/WattersGardenCenter.

Growing, Reaping Benefits of Rosemary

April 4, 2020 By quadcities Leave a Comment

Rosemary is commonly used in cooking to flavor soups, sauces and meats. Perhaps less well known, it also has many health benefits and can be used as a natural remedy for a variety of ailments. Here are 10 health benefits of rosemary that will prompt you to grow this plant and find ways to use this valuable, fragrant herb.

Cancer Prevention – Rosemary contains carnosol, found in studies to be a potent anti-cancer compound. Researchers have had promising results of its efficacy against breast cancer, prostate cancer, colon cancer, leukemia and skin cancer. In one test, researchers gave powdered rosemary to rats for two weeks and found that it reduced the binding of the carcinogen given to the rats by 76% and significantly inhibited the formation of breast tumors.

Improved Memory – Rosemary long has been believed to have memory-enhancing properties. In 1529, an herbal book recommended taking rosemary for “weakness of the brain.” Modern research has found that rosemary contains a diterpine called carnosic acid that has neuroprotective properties that researchers believe may protect against Alzheimer’s disease as well as the normal memory loss that comes with aging.

Remarkably, even the smell of rosemary has been found to improve memory! Human test subjects were given essential oil of rosemary to smell and were found to have better quality of memory and overall memory than the control group.

Migraine Help – Rosemary has been a popular natural migraine remedy for centuries. Boil some rosemary in a large pot of water and pour it into a bowl. Place a towel over your head and lean over the pot to inhale the steam for about 10 minutes. Because smelling rosemary has been found to improve memory and mood, this anti-migraine treatment also may help with memory function and put you in a better state of mind.

Pain Relief – It not only helps relieve the pain of migraines, but essential oil of rosemary can also be applied topically as a natural treatment for arthritis, sore muscles and other joint and muscle pains.

Immune Booster – Rosemary boosts the immune system thanks to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic properties. Because it is healing in so many ways, it boosts the overall health of the body.

Digestive Health – Rosemary is often used to help treat digestive problems such as upset stomach, constipation, indigestion and almost any other digestion-related problem. It also helps to prevent food-borne illnesses when ingested with meat or eggs.

Fresh Breath – Rosemary is an effective natural mouthwash. To make the mouthwash, steep fresh rosemary in a pint of heated water. Strain and use it as a mouth rinse as often as you like. It will keep in the refrigerator, covered.

Respiratory Health – Rosemary is a great natural remedy for respiratory problems. Breathing in the scent of the essential oil may help with congestion from colds, allergies, respiratory infections and the flu. You also may boil fresh rosemary in a pot of water, place it in a bowl, and breathe in the steam to help clear the lungs and throat. This helps with any sinus or head pain associated with respiratory conditions.

Liver Detoxification – Rosemary has been used to treat liver problems for hundreds of years. Hippocrates prescribed it for this purpose. One study found that rosemary extract reduces cirrhosis in rats given thioacetamide, a compound toxic to the liver. It also prevented liver damage from tetrachloride in rats and mice.

Anti-Aging – Rosemary is a popular ingredient in anti-aging skin creams because it helps reduce puffiness, stimulates cell regeneration, increases firmness and improves overall skin tone. It is a natural anti-inflammatory and increases blood flow to the skin.

Caveat: For the most part, rosemary is considered safe for human consumption with no side effects, but some precautions are warranted. Pregnant women should avoid consuming large amounts of rosemary because it may lead to uterine contractions and miscarriage. People with high blood pressure should not take rosemary because it may raise blood pressure.

Growing Rosemary

Rosemary is not picky when it comes to soil but prefers generously amended soil. It is sun exposure that has a major influence on the plant’s healthy growth. Ground cover and upright rosemary are easily grown in local landscapes where plants can receive at least six hours of sun each day, the hotter the better. This plant does not like to sit in wet, sticky soils, and suffers when over-watered. To meet all the varieties, shapes and sizes of rosemary that are grown locally, simply visit the garden center.

Until next issue, I’ll be helping gardeners plant the perfect rosemary here at Watters Garden Center. QCBN

By Ken Lain

Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 W. Iron Springs Road in Prescott, or contacted through wattersgardencenter.com or FB.com/WattersGardenCenter .

Planting the Hardiest Perennials in Local Gardens

April 19, 2019 By quadcities Leave a Comment

Gardening may be one of America’s favorite hobbies, but it does have a downside. Imagine investing dozens of hours and hundreds of dollars redecorating your bedroom, only to have it crumble to ashes in less than a year! That is a good analogy to planting and nurturing a garden that withers away after one season. Fortunately, not all plants will go belly-up each fall/winter. By choosing those vigorous perennial plants that tolerate a wide range of growing conditions, you can be assured that your investment of time and money will bring you pleasure repeatedly for many growing seasons.

Bee Balm Much is made of the drought tolerance of plants, but a wet place in the garden can be just as difficult to cultivate. Bee balm is one answer to the soggy garden dilemma. Three-foot-tall clumps feature blue, pink, red or white flowers that attract butterflies and hummingbirds. As a member of the mint family, bee balm is an assertive plant, but those plants that spread out of bounds are easily pulled out to maintain control. New varieties boast superior mildew resistance.

Butterfly Bush Gardeners who make room for a Buddleia in their landscapes will soon discover that it’s a one-stop, non-stop buffet for many species of butterflies. The long flower panicles are comprised of many individual blooms, each filled with a rich store of nectar. That’s why numerous butterflies are observed lingering around the shrub on warm, sunny days. Flowering happens on new wood, so frigid zone 5 winters have no effect on the summer show. Plant butterfly bushes in full sun in average soil and cut back plants in early spring to encourage strong branching.

Catmint More than just a little herb for the cat to frolic in, catmint gained permanent cult status when the “Walker’s Low” variety was named the 2007 Perennial Plant of the Year. Lovely grayish-green foliage complements, and bees delight in, the nectar-rich violet blooms that appear throughout the summer months. Plants grow to about two feet tall but have a prostrate habit that looks attractive at the edge of a wall or path.

Daylily Stella D’ Oro daylilies have become an office park landscaping staple, but everblooming daylilies have much more to offer than this popular gold variety. Although the color spectrum is limited to the warmer side of the color wheel, exciting color patterns and flower forms take the available cultivar numbers into the thousands. Full sun is best, although darker varieties may benefit from afternoon shade to prevent sunscald. Fertilization isn’t necessary, but an occasional deep watering during summer dry spells is beneficial.

Feather Reed Grass Ornamental grasses belong on every lazy gardener’s wish list. Many of them originate from the prairie so are accustomed to surviving a range of pests and demanding weather conditions. The deep roots of feather reed grass make it adaptable to wet and dry soils, and it grows just fine in lean soils, requiring no fertilizer. The six-foot flowering stalks make a beautiful vertical accent that endures well into fall.

Lamb’s Ear This a plant for the fifth sense of a garden, as it is a physical plant like few others. More than just fuzzy, the silvery leaves are downright woolly and hold up to stroking more than a silky flower petal would do. The lavender spikes don’t look like much, but bees love them. Lamb’s ear plants grow in full to partial sun and are quite drought tolerant. The clumps that spread each year provide pass-along plants for friends, or can be added to enhance the volume of foliage in containers.

Sedum Sometimes tough plants have a reputation for being invasive, but drought tolerant sedum plants always mind their manners. Also called stonecrop, this plant can survive for years without any watering, dividing, mulching or deadheading. The diverse genus offers tall and creeping varieties, all with succulent leaves that shrug off insects. Gardeners new to sedums should start with the wildly popular, dependable and nearly maintenance free “Autumn Joy,” which at end of summer produces nectar-rich pink flower clusters.

Russian Sage In neighborhoods with new construction, topsoil is stripped away, and the rubble that’s left behind hardly qualifies as soil. What to plant in such a harsh environment? Start with this tough-as-nails perennial that features a cloud of sky blue flowers for three months in its first season. The one factor Russian Sage can’t live without is full sun, as it’s essential for healthy bloom production. As we all are aware, “full sun” is bestowed very generously upon our local area gardens!

Until next issue, I’ll be helping local gardeners here at Watters Garden Center. QCBN

By Ken Lain

Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 W. Iron Springs Rd in Prescott, or contacted through her web site at WattersGardenCenter.com or FB.com/WattersGardenCenter.

Planting the Hardiest Perennials for Local Gardens

April 17, 2019 By quadcities Leave a Comment

Butterfly Bush Gardeners who make room for a Buddleia in their landscapes will soon discover that it’s a one-stop, non-stop buffet for many species of butterflies. The long flower panicles are comprised of many individual blooms, each filled with a rich store of nectar. That’s why numerous butterflies are observed lingering around the shrub on warm, sunny days! Flowering happens on new wood, so frigid zone 5 winters have no effect on the summer show. Plant butterfly bushes in full sun in average soil and cut back plants in early spring to encourage strong branching.

Russian Sage In neighborhoods with new construction, topsoil is stripped away, and the rubble that’s left behind hardly qualifies as soil. What to plant in such a harsh environment? Start with this tough-as-nails perennial that features a cloud of sky blue flowers for three months in its first season. The one factor Russian sage can’t live without is full sun, as it’s essential for healthy bloom production. As we all are aware, “full sun” is bestowed very generously upon our local area gardens!

Until next issue, I’ll be helping local gardeners here at Watters Garden Center. QCBN

By Ken Lain

Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 W. Iron Springs Rd in Prescott, or contacted through her web site at WattersGardenCenter.com or FB.com/WattersGardenCenter.

Eight Fragrant Shrubs for Mountain Gardens

March 19, 2019 By quadcities Leave a Comment

What is the most fragrant plant? Which flower has the best smell? What is the most fragrant flower in the world? What is the most fragrant lavender? What is the most fragrant rose?

Shrubs have many uses in the landscape, but gardeners who appreciate sweet-smelling plants will be especially drawn to the most fragrant of these shrubs. Whether cold-hardy or tropical, bushes in this group are valued for scenting the air and thereby diversifying the enjoyment of your yard. The blooms on many of these also boast great beauty.

Daphne is a must-have plant for gardeners who like scented plants or for perfume lovers. The flowers have an orange + lemon + honey + molasses scent and fill a 15-foot space bordering a partial shade garden.

Purple-Leaf Sand Cherry has sweet-smelling blossoms in spring, but this ornamental cherry has value throughout the growing season thanks to its purplish, almost black, foliage. Purple-leaf sand cherry can reach a tree-like 8 feet tall if allowed, but many choose to keep it pruned down to more of a shrub size of 5 to 7 feet. This plant thrives in blistering sun locations and looks great skirting a mountain deck.

Gardenia is easily one of the most fragrant shrubs, and it offers glossy evergreen foliage to boot. I have several that winter over in large pots for us. They are sultry as a summer evening and as intoxicating as an exotic perfume. The blossoms are just as enticing. Buds shaped like seashells unfurl into velvet soft flowers. Several locally hardy shrubs are available at Watters Garden Center this spring.

Korean Spice Viburnum is such a fragrant shrub that one of its common names is “fragrant spicebush.” It smells like the color pine, clove-like with a hint of sweet berries and musk. The best flowers are produced in full sun growing to head height.

Lilacs have a new appreciation. Growing up in Prescott, playing in the small town in the weight of their scent, lilac now has new meaning and remembrance in the garden. In full sun, few shrubs rival their beauty and fragrance. Traditional varieties grow into mini-trees, but several new dwarf varieties reach only hip high and bloom several times a year. Grandma would be jealous.

Mock Orange takes us by surprise every year. Stepping through a doorway walking along as the moon begins to rise, the scent of honey and orange is suddenly everywhere, sweet and floral and strong enough to lie down on. The white flowers are guaranteed each spring with minimal care. It grows naturally to 6 feet tall and blooms best in full sun gardens.

Roses are practically synonymous with fragrant shrubs in the minds of many gardeners. The spectrum of rose aromas is large. They vary from pleasant to sheer delight. The fragrances are described as green tea, honey, vine, moss, fruit or like other flower species. Roses grow better in high, dry gardens. In March, you will find the latest introductions here at Watters, with 700 roses all in bloom arriving the last week in April.

Fragrance Does Not Come from Flowers Alone

Lavender plants smell sweet like flowers with herbal notes and balsamic undertones. Watters specializes in mountain hardy varieties often dried and used in potpourri. The beautiful thing about fragrant foliage is the leaves stay in the garden a lot longer than do flowers. Lavender grows in the ground and looks spectacular in large containers.

Celebrating the 57th Spring Open House March 16, 17

It was 57 years ago this month that Watters Garden Center opened its doors as the first nursery in Northern Arizona. This year, we introduce new plant varieties, new flower colors and a vast selection of cold hard blooming baskets specially grown for the event. Meet our growers and talk directly to the plant breeders that have made Watters Garden Center famous all these years.

Until next issue, I’ll be here at Watters Garden Center helping local gardeners choose just the right fragrance for their gardens. QCBN

By Ken Lain

Ken can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 W. Iron Springs Rd. in Prescott, or contacted through his website at WattersGardenCenter.com or FB.com/WattersGardenCenter.

Experiencing the Seedy Side of Watters Garden Center

January 20, 2018 By quadcities Leave a Comment

The 2018 organic seed has arrived at Watters Garden Center. Each packet is stamped with an official non-GMO seal, ensuring that these seeds have not been genetically modified. Make sure to verify a seed’s freshness date, organic status and whether it is genetically modified before you buy your seeds for this spring.

If you buy your seed online, there are some cautions that are important to have in mind before hitting the “Buy it Now” button. Make sure to check for seed freshness. Seed should have been tested and packaged within the last nine months for optimal performance. All seed packages should be tested and stamped for germination rates and viability. Know the source from which you are buying seed or you can have failures from old leftover seed. Make sure you know what you are buying before you claim black thumbs this spring.

Here are my pointers on starting seedlings indoors. Start your seed growing process by assembling all the materials you will need in your work area.

– You will need containers and trays with drainage. These may be clean plastic pots, trays or peat trays. For the planting medium, I prefer to use a “Soilless Seedling Mix” or peat planting mix because of its sterility and handling ease. Either of these mediums is available at the garden center.

– Because many seed varieties require a constant temperature for germination, you should invest in a waterproof soil-heating mat. Although normally factory set to keep soil at 72 degrees, there also are mats that have variable thermostats. A heating mat is money well spent; it increases success with seedlings and can be used for years.

– It is important to know if the seeds you plan to sow need any special treatment before sowing. Some may need to be soaked for a few hours, some need days in the freezer and others will need to be scarified (nicking the seed hull). For this information, consult with your local nursery. Whatever seed you’ve chosen it is a good idea to do your sowing in stages so that in the event of disaster you have a second chance at a good crop!

– Depending on the size of the seed you may have to create either a seed “trench” or, using a dibble stick, punch a row of small holes. The rows should be at least an inch apart. The planting depth is critical, usually one or two times the diameter of the seed. Very fine seeds or seeds that require light for germination should not be covered at all.

– With the seeds planted you should create a miniature greenhouse environment for the pots or flats. This can be done by placing them inside a sealed plastic bag (using small stakes to hold the plastic from actually resting on the soil mix), or by placing a sheet of glass over the tray. An old aquarium works very well as do ready-made seedling greenhouses. A greenhouse environment almost eliminates the necessity of watering the bed again before the seeds germinate; be sure to keep an eye on them, though.

– Place your flat in an area where it will get good light but not direct sun, and can remain as close to the desired temperature as possible. Depending upon the seed, germination can take anywhere from a few days to a couple of months. Once the seeds have poked through the soil, remove the greenhousing and gradually move the flat into brighter lights or sun.

– At this stage, the seedlings have underdeveloped root systems, so it is critical that you check daily for watering! The potting medium must remain moist, but never soggy. Very wet soil starves the roots of oxygen and drowns new plants. – Bottom watering is best at this point because spraying can dislodge the plants and water on the leaves can lead to fungus attack. Temperatures should be kept at about 70-75 F degrees.

– Until this time, the seedlings have been nourished from the food in the seed itself. Once the second set of leaves develops you can begin to feed your new seedlings. Fertilizing should be done from bottom watering, using a very dilute ¼-strength mix of soluble “Fish Fertilizer” once a week. When the plants have reached about three inches, you can begin to water and feed the plants from above.

Until next issue, I’ll be helping gardeners choose the freshest seed here at Watters Garden Center. QCBN

By Ken Lain

Ken Lain, the mountain gardener, can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 W. Iron Springs Rd in Prescott, or contacted through his web site at WattersGardenCenter.com or FB.com/WattersGardenCenter .

Boxwoods Make A Garden Look Better

November 27, 2017 By quadcities Leave a Comment

Thanks to its versatility, boxwood can fit into any landscape, whether a formal or casual design. In winter’s sparse garden, this shrub’s strong shape, rich green color and air of old-world formality can dominate the scene. In summer, when the garden is in full bloom, it blends into the lushness, providing shape and structure. There are about 90 species and over 365 different kinds of boxwood. They vary tremendously in size, shape, leaf characteristics, growth rates and hardiness. The secret to working with these evergreens is in choosing the varieties that best fit the growing conditions where you are creating your landscape. Here are our top picks and some ways to use them.

Hedges – Boxwoods take well to shearing, which makes them likely candidates for hedges. They are suitable for defining different spaces in the garden, as a border along a property line or for a tidy foundation cover-up.

If you want a tight, close hedge, place your plants half as far away from one another as the mature width listed on the plant tag and they will fill in exactly the way you want. Here are three of the hardiest mountain varieties ready for planting now:

Winter Gem Boxwood

Variegated English Boxwood

Green Mountain Boxwood

Edgers and low hedges – Gardeners have been clipping boxwood shrubs into tight formations since 4,000 BC when some Egyptians picked up a pair of shears and went to work. From parterres and knot gardens to defined borders along walkways or beds, low-growing boxwoods such as these three varieties lend themselves to a structured look:

Dwarf English Boxwood

Morris Midget Boxwood

Wee Willie Boxwood

Green Accents – Enhance your front door area with a single boxwood or with several of these shapely plants (we love three staggered heights packed into a tight grouping). Use them to define corners in a border or add to billowing borders for structure. These cultivars make it easy:

Chicagoland Green Boxwood

Faulkner Boxwood

Green Velvet Boxwood

Topiary – Select taller varieties for swooping spiral or tiered ball topiary forms. Smaller varieties can be sheared into whatever shape you fancy, from a classic orb to whimsical whatevers. Take clippers and shape these varieties:

Green Tower Boxwood

Green Mountain Boxwood

Golden Triumph Boxwood

Containers and Raised beds – Almost all boxwoods are candidates for containers because they look just as good in January as they do in June. Choose a fast-draining pot that is at least as wide and tall as the plant itself, and preferably bigger. The larger the container, the more soil it holds and the less often you have to water. This one’s a great container candidate:

Petite Pillar Dwarf Boxwood

Keeping Boxwoods Happy

Provide excellent drainage – Boxwoods are highly adaptable to various soil types, including average or poor soils and acidic or alkaline conditions provided the soil is well drained. Boxwoods can’t take standing water and heavy wet soil which can lead to root rot. Prevent this problem by amending your garden soil to a 50 percent blend of Watters Premium Mulch and native garden soil; then plant on a slight mound in the yard. For containers and raised beds plant directly into Watters Potting Soil.

Keep them clean – When a boxwood is sheared to produce denser outer foliage, air circulation is inhibited and light is prevented from reaching the inner sections of the plant. The resulting dead leaves and stems that accumulate in the center can promote fungal diseases that can be fatal. Prune back all dying branches to healthy wood, remove all debris from the center of the plant, and thin out some of the outside growth so that air and light can reach into and maintain a healthy center.

Sun exposure – Boxwoods thrive in either full sun or light shade. But if exposed to extreme winds and full sun, boxwoods can struggle the first years in a garden, especially in winter. These conditions are especially common on mountain ridgelines. Protect boxwoods by keeping them vigorous and healthy; water as needed and apply a fresh layer of mulch in fall to help prevent winter damage. Spray with Watters “Wilt Stop” to withstand extreme exposure.

Fertilizing – Apply Watters 7-4-4 All Purpose Food in spring, summer, and fall for the greenest plants. Gardeners who plan around holidays use Easter, Independence Day, and Halloween as reminders to feed their healthy boxwoods.

Until next issue, I’ll be here at Watters Garden Center helping local gardeners care for their boxwoods. QCBN

By Ken Lain

Ken Lain can be found throughout the week at Watters Garden Center, 1815 W. Iron Springs Rd in Prescott, or contacted through his web \site at WattersGardenCenter.com or FB.com/WattersGardenCenter .

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